Intro in Dutch🇳🇱, article in English🇬🇧 – Written by Claire Mumford – 

Regeneratieve viticultuur is een duurzame landbouwpraktijk die verder gaat dan biologische of biodynamische wijnbouw. Het doel is om een natuurlijke eco-systeem te creëren en actief te ondersteunen. Door bijvoorbeeld niet te tillen, covercrops te zaaien en gebruik te maken van natuurlijke meststoffen en compost wordt vocht vastgehouden, biodiversiteit gestimuleerd en bodemerosie tegengegaan. Dit alles verhoogt de weerbaarheid van de wijngaard omgeving – niet onbelangrijk in tijden van klimaatverandering waarin steeds extremere weerbeelden zich voordoen.

In Engeland zijn vooral de klassieke rassen aangeplant, die minder resistent tegen ziekte zijn dan de nieuwere, schimmelresistente PIWI’s. Vanwege het redelijk vochtige klimaat zijn er dan ook weinig producenten die gecertificeerd biodynamisch kunnen werken. Claire Mumford* ging op bezoek bij een stel dat niet alleen regeneratief, maar ook volledig biodynamisch werkt: Ham Street Wines, in Kent.

Entrance to the vineyard of Ham Street Wines

Lucie and Jules 

Winding lanes lined with hedgerows, verges scattered with cow-parsley and buttercups: it is a sunny day in early Spring. I am about to meet Lucie and Jules, who are transforming this particular patch of Kent into a thriving wine estate. They greet me warmly – accompanied by Peanut the dog, who enthusiastically escorts us on our walk around the property.

Warm welcome by Lucie

When Lucie Swiestowska and Jules Phillips took on their ten acre site in Hamstreet in 2019, their goal was to establish a flourishing vineyard, embracing responsible farming practices. Given both Lucie and Jules were to continue their day jobs in London, the aim was to work to a scale that would be manageable, and therefore sustainable, in the long term.

Original plantings were Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – the classic varieties for English sparkling wine – Bacchus and Pinot Gris, although Ham Street is currently trialling several other varieties in an experimental block. This includes some disease tolerant hybrids, such as Souvignier Gris and Sauvignac. Lucie has – rather optimistically! – planted a few Syrah vines, close to the winery wall for extra warmth.

Chardonnay vines at Ham Street wines

Bringing soil back to life

The land had previously been conventionally farmed for winter barley. Although tests proved the land to be nutritionally sound and residue-free, it was essentially lifeless: years of fertilisation and intensive cultivation had stripped the soil of earthworms, insects and any kind of microbiological life. There was a distinct lack of biodiversity, and much soil erosion: Lucie refers in particular to a ridge she calls “the dead zone”, where topsoils were very thin.

Research has consistently proven that a healthy growing environment relies on microbiologically diverse soils. The challenge was clear; to coax this soil back to life. Lucie and Jules researched their venture thoroughly, looking into principles of organic, biodynamic and regenerative practice, and referencing literature on Korean Natural farming (an approach to agriculture from which the permaculture movement would later evolve). Having initially embarked on organic conversion, Ham Street expanded to certified biodynamic practice in 2023.

Rebuilding topsoil is a long term process, involving repeated applications of mulch to restore organic matter, and planting deep-rooting cover crops to improve soil structure. It is a process to which Lucie and Jules are committed, and as a result their practice has evolved naturally into its current regenerative status.

Peanut the dog

Natural balance in the vineyards

At this time of year the vineyard is only just waking from its’ winter sleep, but as we walk around the site, Lucie describes various types of plants they have introduced between the rows. Phacelia and low-lying clovers bring in useful pollinators, and fix nitrogen. Deep-rooting wild carrots and radishes help to break up and aerate the heavy clay soils which are so prevalent in Kent. Ground cover is particularly important for clay soils, which dry out, crack and harden quickly, making them inhospitable to soil life.  Chardonnay is particularly susceptible to mildew, which would normally be treated with sulphur sprays: Lucie is researching the benefits of cover crops such as chives and mustard, which are naturally sulphur-releasing, as a means of reducing spraying.

We talk about ‘the undervine issue’: many growers struggle with the conundrum of how to deal with vigorous weeds and long grass around the base of vines without resorting to herbicides, the alternative being mechanical weeding – which involves repeated tractor passes, compacting the ground. Left unchecked, weeds can overcompete for water and nutrients. However, after a period of labour-intensive hand weeding, Lucie realised that the problem was much less significant than it seemed; the weeds and long grass didn’t dominate, but instead achieved a natural balance with the vines.

Native woods surrounding the property

Natural predators and mycelium

The core principles of regenerative viticulture focus on creating a balanced and diverse ecosystem, within which vines thrive in symbiosis with their growing environment. Much of this practice is aimed at increasing resilience to environmental factors such as disease, pests and extreme weather events, such as drought. Establishing a range of wildlife habitats around the vineyard and including trees and hedgerows encourages natural predators for pests and promotes biodiversity. Ham Street vineyard is surrounded by ancient woodlands on three sides – which at this time of year are carpetted with a stunning display of bluebells. Inspired by Korean Natural farming, Lucie and Jules have begun harvesting mycelium, a beneficial fungus, from these surrounding woods. This involves placing boxes containing starchy remains such as potato or rice, on which mycelium already present in the woods can develop. Mycelium play a crucial role in supplying nutrients to the vine, in the area around the roots known as the mycorrhizal zone.

Homemade compost

Lucie and Jules make their own Johnson SU Bioreactor – a form of compost. Woodchip and mowings from the vineyard are layered in the pile, which is aerated throughout with home-made perforated tubing. The pile is covered with sheep’s wool and left for around 400 days, during which time all manner of desirable bacteria and microbes develop. The compost is then diluted with rainwater collected on site, and used as a compost spray – a single bucketful being sufficient for the entire vineyard. Alongside biodynamic preparations such as cow-horn manure, this forms the core of the vineyard programme.

Lucie explaining about Johnson SU bioreactor compost

The compost

Herbal infusions

Lucie shows me into a large storage container, where she keeps various tubs of dried herbs. These are steeped and dynamised in rainwater to create an array of herbal infusions for spraying. The benefits of these herbs are various – and they minimise significantly the necessity for copper and sulphur sprays. Horsetail and oak bark enhance resistance to mildew, fungi and pests, whilst white willow bark and dandelion contain silica, which serves to toughen leaf structure. Nettle tea is a good source of nitrogen, essential for leafy growth. When the threat of spring frosts loom, valerian tea is sprayed on budding leaves: this stimulates the bacteria around the buds, which in turn generates a minute amount of heat. This is often sufficient to stave off frost damage – at least in Kent, which is a relatively warm part of the UK.

Horsetail

Onto the winery

The whole site is off grid, functioning entirely on solar power. Lucie tells me this can be challenging at times, and particularly so during harvest. All grapes are basket-pressed which ensures a gentle, slow pressing. The majority of settling takes place in larger fibreglass tanks, with some juice going straight to barrel. A small selection of chardonnay ferments in clay amphora. These are not techno wines. Low intervention is key: no additions or cultured yeasts, in keeping with biodynamic practice. Only the very minimum of sulphur dioxide is added at bottling – if deemed necessary – to prevent future spoilage. Older barrels are used to mature the wines, as new oak would influence and overpower fruit expression. The wines are all unfiltered and unfined, and in many cases bottled according to the biodynamic calendar. It is clear that Lucie and Jules are keen to allow the vineyard to speak through their wines: winemaking has a supporting role.

Basket press

Clay amphora

Infogram on the site

The wines

And so to the wines, of which there is quite a range.

• The Blanc de Blancs is a classic traditional method sparkling wine made with 100% Chardonnay and with zero dosage. The current release is made from Hamstreet’s first Chardonnay harvest. The wines were fermented and aged in barrel, before being bottled for further time on lees.
• The ancestral method Pet Nat is a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Bacchus, and has undergone 5 days of carbonic maceration; it has a beautiful rosehip colour.
• Carbonnay is an amber Chardonnay, with a 23-day carbonic maceration in tank followed by 10 months in amphora, and a further year under cork. Showing deep amber colour, the wine is complex in texture and aroma, with layers of bright citrus peel and star anise.
• The Field Blends inevitably vary from year to year, giving a good reflection of the vintage. All of the estate’s grapes are used, black and white, although Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir are dominant. The reserve field blends are aged for longer in oak, giving a rounder, richer finish.
• 100% Chardonnay, a single-barrel release, fermented and aged in older Burgundy barrels for 20 months. It displays intense mineral freshness.
• 100% Pinot Gris, macerated on skins for 11 days before fermenting and maturing in barrel: once again, a single-barrel release. The wine shows a lively tension with spice and blossom; Lucie explains that her inspiration for this wine lies in Alsace.

Barrels in the winery

The Ham Street wines

One has to remark on the label design: the most recent are beautiful native flower illustrations, drawn by a retired friend of the family. They are striking yet delicate and reflect perfectly the carefully considered style of the wines themselves. They feature amongst others Clover, Vetch and Hairy Vetch, legumes that grow in the vineyard and help to fix nutritious nitrogen in the soil.

Exciting future

Whilst wanting to remain manageable, Lucie tells me they do have some exciting plans. The most successful of the trialled vines in the experimental block are to be planted on a new site. She is keen on the idea of grazing animals in the vineyard – in keeping with regenerative viticulture practice – but rather than the usual choice of sheep, Lucie would prefer pigs (an idea of which Jules is yet to be convinced!) In order to enable year-round grazing without damage to the vines, the new site will use a system of high trellising. In addition, there are plans to convert part of the winery into a glass-walled hospitality space, which will afford visitors a view of the vineyard whilst they enjoy the wines.

Lucie describes the experience of setting up Ham Street Wines as a welcome change from working at a desk in the city: she loves to be outside, and enjoys the autonomous nature of the work. Ham Street Vineyard aims to work with and within the natural surroundings that flank it, inspired by nature and all her processes. The beauty of regenerative viticulture lies in recognising, restoring and nurturing the precious balance that nature, when left to her own devices, so effortlessly achieves. Farming the soil respectfully is key. By adopting this holistic approach, vine and vigneron alike become part of a balanced, healthy ecosystem. I for one am intrigued to see how the wines from this corner of Kent will continue to evolve and develop in the coming years.

The wines are not yet available in the Netherlands, but there are plans to export to the continent this year.

For information: www.hamstreetwines.co.uk

*Claire is Registervinoloog en studeert voor Magister Vini. Ze heeft gewerkt in wijnkelders en wijngaarden in Nederland, Duitsland, Zuid-Afrika, Chili en Zuid-Engeland. Claire schrijft graag over haar ervaringen in haar moedertaal, het Engels. Lees hier de artikelen van Claire.

#claire